Cognac

An eau-de-vie protected by an appellation

Cognac, also called Charente eau-de-vie, is a product made within a precisely defined geographic area. Recognized as an AOC since 1936, it must comply with a set of specifications governing the origin of the grapes, vinification, distillation, aging, blending, and traceability.

Cognac today is mostly the result of blending expertise. A single cuvée can bring together eau-de-vie from several crus and different aging periods. This craft allows each house to preserve a consistent aromatic identity from one bottle to the next.

A history shaped by distillation and trade

Charente wines have been sold for several centuries. From the 15th century onward, distillation developed to make these wines easier to preserve and to transport to Northern Europe. Dutch traders played a key role in this growth, and the term brandewijn, meaning "burnt wine," gave rise to the English word "brandy."

In the 17th and 18th centuries, stills multiplied across Charente, and double distillation progressively became standard. Merchants noticed that eau-de-vie kept in oak barrels aged more favorably: its character softened, its color changed, and its aromatic range grew more complex.

Cognac and Jarnac then became major trading hubs. Martell, Hennessy, Delamain, Hine, then Rémy Martin, Camus, and other houses helped shape the practices of the trade. From the late 19th century onward, bottled shipping progressively replaced barrel transport, allowing producers to better control the presentation and identity of their cuvées.

The six Cognac crus

The production area mainly covers Charente and Charente-Maritime, with a few communes located in Deux-Sèvres and Dordogne. It is divided into six crus, whose characteristics are notably linked to soil and subsoil composition.

You'll come across the following designations on bottles:

• Grande Champagne: renowned for its shallow limestone soils and eaux-de-vie often intended for long aging.
• Petite Champagne: also marked by limestone soil, with profiles that can present a similar aptitude for aging.
• Borderies: the smallest of the six crus.
• Fins Bois: a broad terroir surrounding the Champagnes and Borderies areas.
• Bons Bois: a terroir located more toward the periphery of the appellation.
• Bois Ordinaires, also called Bois à Terroirs: areas located notably close to the coastline and forested land.

The term "Champagne" here doesn't refer to sparkling wine in any way. In Charente vocabulary, it refers to chalky terrain.

Fine Champagne is not a seventh cru. This designation refers exclusively to a blend of eaux-de-vie from Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne, with at least 50% Grande Champagne.

Ugni blanc, Cognac's signature grape variety

Cognac is made from white grape varieties capable of producing wines that are acidic and relatively low in alcohol — two characteristics sought before distillation. Ugni blanc accounts for more than 90% of Cognac's vineyard area.

It generally produces wines around 8% to 9% ABV, with high acidity that favors natural preservation and leaves more room for the aromas created during distillation and aging.

Other grape varieties are also authorized by the appellation, including Folle blanche, Colombard, Montils, Sémillon, and Folignan. The last of these, resulting from a cross involving Ugni blanc and Folle blanche, is sometimes used within the framework of current specifications.

From harvest to Charente double distillation

After the harvest, generally carried out between mid-September and mid-October, the grapes are quickly pressed and vinified. Fermentation produces a dry, low-alcohol white wine. Regulations notably prohibit adding sulfites during this period.

The wine is then transformed into eau-de-vie through double distillation in a traditional copper Charentais still. The first distillation, called the première chauffe, produces a raw distillate known as brouillis. This is distilled a second time in what's called the bonne chauffe, during which the distiller selects the heart of the run to produce the future Cognac.

The distillation campaign must be completed no later than March 31 following the harvest. As it comes out of the still, the eau-de-vie is transparent and typically comes off at around 70% ABV. It must then age for a long period, and its alcohol content is progressively reduced before commercialization.

Aging Cognac in oak barrels

For Cognac's age to be officially recorded, aging must take place in an oak vessel. Over this period, exchanges between the wood, the air, and the spirit shape the color, texture, and aromas of the future Cognac.

Aging can progressively bring vanilla, spice, dried fruit, or candied fruit notes to the cuvées, depending on the wood, the oak's tannins, and the length of maturation. Certain very old eaux-de-vie can develop what's known as rancio charentais, evoking notes reminiscent of walnut, undergrowth, or mushroom.

Part of the alcohol and liquid naturally evaporates through the wood: this is known as the angels' share. For the single year 2025, the BNIC (Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac) estimated this evaporation at a volume equivalent to around 41 million bottles.

Blends and age categories: how to read a Cognac bottle

The cellar master can blend eaux-de-vie from different crus, vintages, or aging levels to build the desired profile. Blending remains a defining practice of Cognac, though it isn't mandatory to qualify for the AOC. Before bottling, a progressive reduction with distilled or demineralized water may also take place to reach the desired alcohol strength.

The age stated always corresponds to the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend. The main designations give you a first point of reference:

• VS, Very Special: the youngest eau-de-vie has aged at least 2 years.
• VSOP, Very Superior Old Pale: at least 4 years.
• XO, Extra Old: at least 10 years.

These are minimums only. An XO can, for example, bring together eaux-de-vie of 10, 15, or 20 years and older. Age alone therefore doesn't tell the whole story of a Cognac: the cru, the selection of eaux-de-vie, and the blending work also matter.

What aromas can you expect from a Cognac?

A Cognac's aromatic profile varies significantly from one cuvée to another. The cru, the selection of eaux-de-vie used in the blend, the type of barrel, and aging time can all influence the result.

Young Cognacs can present more floral and fruity expressions, evoking grapes, spring flowers, or fruit. As the wood's influence deepens, notes of vanilla, spice, caramel, or candied fruit can emerge. With extended maturation, rancio notes may appear in certain very old eaux-de-vie.

How to enjoy and use Cognac

Cognac isn't limited to being a digestif served neat, at room temperature. It can also be enjoyed lightly chilled, on ice, or mixed into cocktails and long drinks. For a more focused tasting of its aromas, a tulip glass helps concentrate the fragrances while limiting a too-direct perception of the alcohol.

VS and VSOP lend themselves well to cocktails thanks to their lively, expressive profile. They can pair nicely with tonic, citrus, or certain fruit juices. More aged Cognacs are often best chosen for pure tasting, when you want to take time to explore their wood-derived aromas and extended maturation.

At the table, Cognac can pair with chocolate, desserts, sweet-and-savory dishes, or be used in cooking to deglaze a pan, flambé a preparation, or enrich a sauce. Steak au poivre with Cognac sauce remains one of the most classic culinary pairings.

How to choose your Cognac

When comparing two bottles, don't stop at age alone. Also look at the cru mentioned, if indicated, the possible presence of the Fine Champagne designation, and the specific characteristics of the cuvée, and the alcohol content, the house, or the producer that make up the Cognac shown on the label.

To guide your choice based on how you plan to use it:

• Cocktails and long drinks: favor a VS or a VSOP capable of holding its character once mixed.
• Versatile tasting: a VSOP is a good starting point for both neat sipping and cocktails.
• Pure tasting: an XO will suit you better if you're after more richly aged aromas.
• Very old profiles: XXO Cognacs or certain aged cuvées let you explore deeper, more complex aromas.

For a first purchase intended for tasting, we recommend a VSOP Cognac, mature enough to fully reveal the influence of aging while retaining an accessible fruity expression. At the table, pair it with an unsweetened dark chocolate: its bitterness and toasted, spiced, or fruity notes can echo the wood-derived aromas developed by the eau-de-vie.

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