New Zealand whisky

New Zealand whisky, a history shaped by disruption

Whisky production in New Zealand dates back to the 19th century, when Scottish and Irish settlers brought their distilling knowledge across the oceans. Far from their native lands, these pioneers sought to recreate the flavours they knew, often through illicit production at a time when unlicensed alcohol circulated widely throughout the country.

Two political decisions brought this early momentum to an abrupt halt. In 1865, the Distillation Act prohibited distilleries producing less than 23,000 litres per year, effectively excluding small producers. Then, in 1879, a sharp increase in alcohol duties made locally produced whisky unable to compete with imports. The result was more than 80 years without a genuine whisky industry in New Zealand, a break that still helps explain why the category remains relatively little known today.

Production cautiously returned in the 1970s with the Willowbank Distillery in Dunedin. Its whiskies, including Wilson and 45 South, made use of local peat and maturation in bourbon and sherry casks. Willowbank closed in 1997, seemingly bringing New Zealand whisky production to another end. Its remaining stocks were later acquired by The New Zealand Whisky Company, helping preserve this heritage until a new generation of distillers began to emerge.

A new wave of craft distilleries since the 2010s

From 2010 onwards, around a dozen distilleries gradually established themselves across the country, including Thomson, Cardrona, Pōkeno and Scapegrace. Rather than simply reproducing Scottish methods and styles, this new generation is steadily developing its own identity, shaped by New Zealand ingredients and local conditions.

Several characteristics stand out among these younger producers:

• Increasing use of barley grown locally in New Zealand
• Experimentation with unusual casks, selected to develop distinctive styles rather than follow established conventions
• Inspiration drawn from local culture, culinary traditions and regional ingredients

Production volumes remain modest, but international visibility continues to grow as these distilleries attract enthusiasts looking for original and less familiar expressions.

A flavour profile still taking shape

Older whiskies drawn from Willowbank stocks often display fruity and expressive profiles, with notes reminiscent of berries, dried fruit, exotic spices and butterscotch. Among newer distilleries, flavour profiles are becoming increasingly diverse, reflecting adventurous choices in both cask selection and raw materials.

It is still too early to define a typically New Zealand whisky style. The category is young, the number of producers remains limited and their approaches vary too widely for a single national profile to emerge. What currently connects them is less a shared flavour than a common mindset: a desire for originality and an ambition to express their local environment rather than conform to an established model.

Pōkeno, an expression of volcanic terroir

Located in the Waikato region among volcanic hills, Pōkeno captures the ambition of this new whisky scene particularly well. The distillery produces single malts using exclusively New Zealand-grown barley, combined with long fermentation times and small pot stills.

One of Pōkeno's most distinctive experiments is its use of tōtara, a native New Zealand wood used to finish selected expressions. Waikato's subtropical climate encourages faster maturation, meaning that even a relatively short finish in toasted tōtara casks can leave a pronounced aromatic signature, suggesting sweet tree sap and young coconut. It creates a profile rarely encountered elsewhere in whisky and gives enthusiasts a compelling reason to pay closer attention to what New Zealand distillers are producing.